The Mercedes 126 is a very robust design that can be expected. Nowadays it was one of the best units that used Porsche in the legendary 928. At the same time, like all other machines, we should not let the longevity fame prevent common services. 19659002] As a general rule, the transfer fluid has to be changed by 30,000 miles. Contrary to modern cars, where there is a tendency to keep service access ports away, these Mercedes drives allow us not only to lower the pan but also the torque transducer. In other words, almost all liquid charges can be removed without using explosives such as power.
Since the engine oil needs to be changed hot, it's hot. The steps are as follows:
- Drive the front of the car to ramp or to the support post bracket
- Make sure that the torque converter drain plug is accessible. Unless you are very lucky, you should normally turn the engine on with the starter to see the connector through the access hole. All of this can be "walked" with a large, flat head screwdriver. It is possible to remove the cross member between the two front axes ("dogs"). The six mounting screws are equipped with 17 mm hexagonal screws at 45 Nm.
- Loosen the inlet drain plug with a 5 mm hexagonal socket and then drop a suitable container into the pan. If possible, collect all used liquids in a container and measure it; this will help us fill in the right amount.
- When the pan stops, loosen the plug of the torque converter (same size as the pan) and lower the torque converter down. There is much more fluid than the pan.
- When the two main flows are cleared, loosen the six screws holding the bowl (13 mm head) and carefully remove the pan. Do not pour the remaining liquid. Resist the temptation to wipe the inside out with a shop towel: we do not want any kind of thread here.
- Remove and replace the power transmission filter with Phillips head bolts.
- Thoroughly clean the pan with a lint-free cloth and replace the rubber seal, ensuring the correct fit. Refit the pan and tighten the screws gradually and evenly to 10 Nm. (According to the manual, 8Nm, goes a little better, but please do not go too far: these pans are tilted and are not cheap.)
- Replace the two drain plugs by gasketing new copper nodules. Factory Specifications. 14Nm or about 10lbs / ft. Drive 3/8 works closely. If you have removed the cross member, replace it, making sure not to screw the bolts.
- (Optional) Open the transducer wires on the radiator (17 mm wrench) and lower the small amount of fluid in this area. Replace the lines if their condition is in doubt; they are not expensive. Tighten all connections.
- Using a fine-grained filter, add a four-quarter hour fresh Dexron-Mercon Transfer Fluid (ATF) through the oil dipstick. If you can afford it, use synthetic fluid: it helps to reduce the temperature by reducing the internal friction and the prime enemy of automatic gearboxes is heat.
- Start the engine and slowly add three more quarters
- remove ramps, drive all gears, pause each gear for a few seconds and then check the fluid level. You do not be the smallest sign in this section. Transmission fluid is greatly increased; the reference marks on the dipstick are calibrated for hot liquids. So o.k. to be half inch or less under the mark while the liquid is cold.
- Drive the car for about 20 minutes (yes, at least) to thoroughly warm up the fluid. The transmission fluid continues to warm up, such as engine oil or coolant, and requires friction of actual driving to reach the temperature. Check the liquid again on a level ground. Be careful not to leave any kind of fiber on the dipstick before placing it in the tube. Any level between the signs is OK, but you do not want to exceed the maximum level. If you need to give liquid, take very small steps and check it again.
If you use synthetic fluid, shifts may be noticeably stronger. If necessary, compensate the modulator valve on the driver side of the gearbox. Turn the small knob counterclockwise until the shift quality is unsuitable. Keep in mind that too much slip is bad for the inner clutches.